Having a semi-lock down of 3+ months, we are finally somewhat free in spreading our wings in pursuing our life passions again. Terrace time, dining out, going to the movies and especially travelling beyond borders. Although mobility freedom is limited to your continent or to countries labelled as yellow/green zones, it does bring me an excited feeling being back in exploring new adventures!
Our journey drove us to La Rioja, Donostia/San Sebastián, Bordeaux and closing with Arcachon during the Covid19 period. Each country has their own safety restrictions and is subject to changes. This trip brought us a memorable extraordinary experience 😷
Travelling in La Rioja, we noticed that people in every single village were really being cautious. Keeping their masks on at most times, outdoor and indoor and keeping distance from strangers. At first sight, this was an awkward experience because in the Netherlands most people tend to be very relaxed about Covid. I felt safe at a certain matter as I take extra precautions myself, being in a risk group. La Rioja is so beautiful with its charm, serene villages, panoramic vineyard and sunflower fields at every corner you drive, and Rioja also offers its delicious local food & wine. What more could we ask for?
We lay our base at Palacio de Casafuerte in Zarratón, a small renovated charming palace hotel with 5 rooms run by a local family. We liked our stay here very much. This hotel is superb centrally located when you travel by car and their breakfast was such a wealthy morning start to look forward to every day.
Fields in Rioja 
View from hotel Marqués de Riscal 
Briones 
View over Paisaje del Ebro
Special dishes to try in La Rioja
- Bacalao in tomato sauce – cod fish
- Beef/pork cheeks in red wine sauce
- Chuletas – grilled lamb chops
- Menestra de verduras – sautéed vegetable stew
- Patatas a la Rioja
- Piquillo peppers
- Roasted suckling lamb/pig
- Torrijas – Spanish style French toast (dessert)
- White asparagus, often preserved in a jar
- Zurracapote – quite similar to sangria cocktail drink
Octopus 
Torrijas 
Logroño tomato 
Beef cheek
Foodie & wine places we liked
- La Cocina de Ramón in Logroño– this was our most favourite restaurant where we had a divine 3 course lunch for €25 (weekdays only) and awarded as Bib Gourmand. We dropped by with no reservation and had luck with a table. Staff is friendly and speak a bit English. If you go for à-la-carte, highly recommend the Logroño tomato salad as starter.
- Restaurante Palacio de Casafuerte in Zarratón – wonderful rustic serene setting and the dinner was superb delicious. Starter ~ €15, main ~ €20 and dessert ~ €5. Highly recommend the vegetable stew from La Rioja (menestra). I tried this dish at a few restaurants but here it was at its best.
- Marqués de Riscal – ranked on 6th best world vineyards in 2020 and has a hotel onsite designed by Frank Owen Gehry (one of his work is the Guggenheim museum in Bilboa). You can join a wine tasting tour of 90min. This includes 3 tastings and prices are from €19pp. Personally, we skipped the tour and wanted to enjoy the building architecture and had a drink at the hotel bar. Access to the hotel area, go to the information desk and check with the shop staff if there is a table free at the hotel bar. We tried to walk in but there are barricades and security holds you up when you access via the road. After enjoying a nice view from the bar, we head to the café situated in the wine shop and did our own wine tasting with tapas bites which you can order at the café bar. To our surprise, the prices are very decent affordable.
- La Vieja Bodega in Casalarreina – awarded as Bib Gourmand with a very nice authentic wooden farmer’s house setting. Friendly skilled staff, sommelier and hosts, all speak English. Great wine menu and a small selection can be ordered by glass.