Travel – Simple Single Lifestyle

4 May 20235 May 2023

Fascinating and Intense Marrakech

Fascinating and intense Marrakech can be love at first sight or a one-time experience. This is my first visit in Marocco and to be honest I have a mixed bag of feelings going there. However, I feel very excited to explore this city and get my impression on how the vibe is in Marrakesh.

On our arrival, our trip already started with a bumpy adventure around midnight. We booked a taxi service via booking.com, all went good with a bit of chaotic coordination regarding which driver will drive whom, as there were other passengers than us with transfer bookings. The driver dropped us at a taxi point and called our Riad for pickup by foot. Once arrived in the Riad, we realised we are dropped at the wrong place. Adventurely, we arrived at the right place with good people helping us as well as uninvited pedestrians from the streets who strongly urge themselves in leading you the way while you use your gps to get there. Of course, no surprise at all they rudely ask for money for their ‘genuine help’ services. Luckily, tired and all, this first taste of cultural experiences didn’t scare us off yet.

Staying for 3 full days in Marrakech, we decided to take things easy and explore on the go as we didn’t have must do’s. There are excursions in the rural of Marrakech and in my opinion, those would be nice to book if you stay here for more than 3 days and maybe to getaway from this busy city.

Practical tips before planning or during your trip

Ensure you don’t book your holiday during Ramadan. There might be limited shops or restaurants open.
Stay over in a traditional Moroccan house with an inner courtyard (Riad) instead of a hotel. It’s like B&B.
Pre-book airport hotel pickup to avoid distress of ‘pushy’ taxi drivers and negotiation hazards. Especially when you stay in the maze of Medina, book your transfer directly via your Riad. They charge about MAD220 per car. Riad’s can be hidden in small alleys where a taxi cannot reach, and some drivers have no idea where to find it. You can also call your Riad to pick you up at a taxi point closeby. I heard a taxi ride cost about MAD70-100.
Ignore locals who approach you initiatively offering help to guide you to your destination. Sometimes, they even call you out if you turn into a street, they inform that the road is closed (in French ‘ferme’) and ask where you want to go. It’s hard to know if the person is genuine or not and often it ends up in a game they play to get money at the end. Just say ‘la choukran sīdī’, means ‘no thank you sir’ and keep walking.
If you need help with directions, suggest you to ask cafe/restaurant staff or shop owners. You can also try ask locals for help who you may think are genuine but bear in mind they may not speak English.
Start with sightseeing around 9-10am until you have lunch to avoid the afternoon heat. Post-lunch, take a rest in your hotel and restart your wander after 19pm.
For nicer and popular restaurants, I highly recommend making table reservations.
Traffic is insane. Be alert and cautious all the time when you walk-on and cross over the streets. Scooters drive crazy, even in the small alleys of the souk. You can easily be hit if you don’t watch out. Seems, a lot of drivers don’t care as they are in a rush.
We did Marrakech by foot to explore the city and cannot share much on how much a taxi ride cost. For sure you have to haggle, and I heard from other travellers that a short ride cost approx. MAD30-50.
If you fly back home from Marrakech airport, make sure you read the airline check-in procedure when you receive an email. For example, Ryan Air does not accept mobile boarding pass and will fine you on the airport if you cannot present an old school paper boarding pass. Also, make sure you go to the check-in counter first to get your paper boarding pass stamped before you go to the departure immigration hall. You must do this, even if you do not have any check-in luggage: at least for Ryan Air flights.
At the airport, there is a sign that cash is not accepted at the tax-free or only in Euro bills. Fortunate, they do accept cash in euros or dirham at the kiosks and cafés behind the customs.

Adhan – call to public prayer over city speakers

What to Wear as a Woman?

Marrakech is a busy and touristic city but it’s still a Muslim country. There are no specific rules here. Suggestion is to dress with modesty out of respect. As a female traveler or travelling together with my partner, I like to avoid any kind of uncomfortable catcalling or ‘street harassments’. Those beautiful Instagram pictures with short skirts (above knee), booty pants and strap tops are deceiving as they paint an inaccurate picture on what is appropriate women wear in Marrakech. To avoid unpleasant pervy male gaze, it’s better to cover up your shoulders, legs until knee and cleavage. This may not stop catcalling necessarily but it will minimise unwanted attention. For male, short pants and t-shirt or polo shirts are fine. However, in rural Morocco you better wear long pants. It is disrespectful to be showing off too much skin.

Money Exchange

Avoid exchanging money at the airport. Withdraw money from a bank ATM or exchange in town. There are a few reliable exchange booths that take 0% commission. We changed at ‘Bureau de Change‘, I’ve seen a few in Medina and I heard ‘Hotel Ali‘ at the Jemaa El-Fna square is also a good place.

Things To Do

Get lost in the maze of narrow streets and alleys of Marrakech historic old town Medina. You will find colourful souks (open from about 10am-22pm), artisan shops and historic buildings. I was surprised, that the overly persistent vendors were not that aggressive as I had in mind. Probably, time and experience has changed their sales method.
‌To get different impressions of Marrakesh other than Medina (old town), take a stroll at neighbourhoods of Kasbah (Jewish quarter, popular for spices) and the new town Gueliz. All can be done by foot within 30 minutes.
‌Stroll at the big square Jeema El-Fna. Life starts here from 19pm with lots of food & juice stalls and market shopping.
‌Pre-book a comfortable (touristic spa) hammam experience with a massage. Nice Spa houses may be fully booked. A traditional authentic hammam may not meet your expectations in relaxation. Often, there is zero aesthetic in bath houses and the service and amenities (bathrobe, towels, shampoo, shower gel, hairdryer, locker) may be less. Personally, I experienced an authentic Moroccan hammam & scrub in The Netherlands, and I must say I quite liked the adventure. After having a Hammam Scrub in a Spa house of Marrakech, I prefer the authentic style. In the Spa, they don’t really speak English either and don’t inform you on the HOWs beforehand and you pay much much more (approx. MAD350 pp). When you book for two persons, they even put you together in a treatment room with one resource instead of one each. Certainly, it may be cleaner and seeing a star sky ceiling would bring you a nicer feeling, but it all depends on what you personally prefer.
‌House of Photography, (historical) photos and portraits of people living in Marrakesh. End your museum visit at the roof terrace cafe, where you can have a nice chill out or have a delicious lunch menu for €15 pp including a drink. This building has the highest roof terrace in the area and gives a clear view over Marrakesh.
Bahia Palace, showcases Moroccan architecture and beautiful gardens.
‌Le Jardin Secret, situated in Medina with beautiful gardens and historical architecture. It’s a place that has kept ancient structures intact.
‌Jardin Majorelle, exotic gardens designed by Jacques Majorelle and later restored by haute couture fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent.
‌Some 4-5 star hotels offer non-guests a day pass to make use of their swimming pool area. The price often includes a lunch and a towel for use.

Where to Eat

There are plenty of eateries, restaurants and cafes in Medina, Kasbah and Gueliz. You can find local places and lots of places adjusted to ‘tourist/expats’ service, hygiene & exterior acceptance resulting in a higher price range. Places where I visited:

Le Jardin Restaurant Marrakech (Medina): nice trendy atmosphere and getaway from the heat in the garden area. They have a roof terrace but we hided in de garden to cool off. From the garden, there is a staircase up to a little local women boutique shop ‘Noria Ayron’ where they sell beautiful dresses and jump suits.
‌L’Mida Marrakesh (Medina): trendy cafe restaurant serving fusion Moroccan food. Make sure you book a roof terrace table for dinner. Service is excellent but the food can take a while if the place is too crowded.
‌Cuisine de Terroir (Medina): nice ‘local’ place with its charms. Good service, great value and yummy food. A proud place recommended by TripAdvisor & Guide du Routard. They have a roof terrace but if you prefer a bit ‘cooler’ temperature, I think a table downstairs on the ground floor is better. However, it may be noisier from the street.
‌La Famille (Medina): a lushy cosy inner courtyard place serving vegetarian lunch. Booking is highly recommended.
‌El Fenn Hotel (Medina): have a sunset cocktail at this amazing hotel roof terrace bar restaurant. Cocktails cost about MAD130-160 but definitely a nice place to enjoy design & a trendy vibe with good service.
‌Le Kilim (Gueliz): great service & delicious food. Really liked the tajine chicken and vegetable plate with full flavours in each veggie.
‌Le Palace (Hivernage): recommended as an absolute must go by a friend, especially booking a table at ground floor with art-deco design. Downstairs is a clubbing scene but also have dining tables. However, food is not authentic French as they also serve pizza and pasta. If you like to have a chic dinner in an ‘expat’ scenery in a cramped space with volumed up clubbing music and don’t mind bad acoustic, this may be your place to be.
‌Absolute must drink are the fruit juices. They are full of flavour and taste natural. At the evening market stands at Jeema el-Fna square, a small fresh orange juice cost MAD5 and another type of fruit from MAD10.

El Fenn Hotel Roof Terrace Bar & Restaurant

My Impressions of Marrakech

I love Moroccan food but the variations on the menu are limited. It’s always the same dishes on the menu. Tajine, pastille chicken and fresh fruit juices or smoothies are our favorites.
Beautiful Moroccan architecture.
Too much commotion in traffic, even in small ‘pedestrian’ alleys. Heavy pollution with smog and noise everywhere, except for when people sleep at night.
Be respectful and people will act the same.

Medina – authentic local hammam bath house

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8 April 202314 May 2023

Indescribable experience in Sevilla during Easter week

Indescribable experience in Sevilla during Easter week, I just can’t describe it and will try to share my holy week (Semana Santa) journey by photos and videos I took. I’m not religious myself but no doubt this is an incredible experience to see this live in Andalucia! The dedication & powerful synergy in the Semana Santa processions is one thing not to be missed here in Sevilla.

Young and old people march along the paths to the church, an entire week of processions by different brotherhoods. Some give away candies during the march, often by children and some give away religious cards like Jezus or Maria. It was amazing in seeing how Spanish folk start walking the procession at a young age and keep the traditions.

I was lucky in recording a small part of the procession in Sevilla from a balcony. The pasos (wagon with large sculptures depicting scenes from the bible) even made a turn at the end of the street. Watch here the short video with powerful orchestra marching together with the brotherhood.

On this post, I will also share my favorite foodie places, roof terraces and some shopping and sightseeing spots. For shopaholics, bear in mind, most shops may be closed during festivals.

Watching various Catholic brotherhoods marching on every procession is a remarkable experience. The people marching in Catholic pointed hats (capirotes) & robes are called Nazarenos. In the old days, Nazarenos represents penance. Some historians believe that the capirote dates back to the time of the Spanish inquisition (1478–1834). Sinners had to wear a capirote and walk along the streets as a form of public humiliation to do penance and to absolve from their sins.

Today, only Catholic brotherhoods wear the capirotes. The costumes still represent penitence but those wearing these robes are not doing penance anymore and its now more a majestic representation once they were. Nowadays, the brotherhoods proudly lead the pasos to their church or cathedral holding large crosses and tall candle lights.

Each march can last for hours, some starts from 15-ish and ends around or past midnight supported by family or friends on the side to give them water & food.

When you observe the details, you will notice that carrying the wagon and the walk movement between Malaga & Sevilla are different. The brotherhoods in Malaga carry the wagon around the wagon lifting the weight on their shoulders and swing a bit while walking. With the brotherhoods in Sevilla, they lift the wagon underneath on their neck and take small steps moving forward. You may have watched the YouTube video I shared on top of this post.

To see how the brotherhood march in Malaga, watch this very short video.

I’ve seen the necks of the wagon carriers, bruised, skin damaged and they have a red glowing hump at their base of their neck. I’ve been told that the wagon weighs more than 1000kg and not to forget, the warm temperature in Sevilla adds up on the hard work they offer. During the day it can be around 27°C and marching slowly in robes and coned hoods covering their entire head is a high appreciated dedication. At least it is my impression and opinion ☺️

Their devotion for their religion is sky high. Some hard core brothers march barefoot, a devotion to be closer to Jezus and share the pain and suffer. I’m not sure if this is the correct reason as I’ve been told by a Spanish man and I think it makes sense but you never know.

Personally, the most thrilling part is the orchestra; powerful drums & trumpets making your heart pounding and witnessing a brotherhood marching slowly and leading the pasos holding large crosses, lanterns or lit candle lights🕯️

Where to eat

In Sevilla there is no lack of great tapas bars nor restaurants. Every corner you pass by, you can eat or have a drink. I share a few of my favorite places when I visit Sevilla every single time.

Gastronomic Bib Gourmand Az-Zait restaurante. I enjoy my dinner here from my heart. The service is friendly and impeccable and quality versus price is marvelous. A-la-carte 3-course including wine, table water and high quality of brandy as digestive approx €60 per person. You can also opt for a menu.
Have a tapas in the oldest tapas bar in Seville dated from 1670, El Rinconcillo.
PETRA, a small trendy tapas restaurant with splendid service & tasty food.
Very popular tapas bar & restaurant in an apartment hotel complex, Espacio Eslava.
Cozy wine bar with small bites at Vinoteco Lama La Uva.
Small inside & outside but great classic tapas at this taverne, Los Coloniales.
A lot of locals having their tapas at Casa Manolo Tapas Bar Sevillano.
Have a Fika (coffee & sweet) at Hotel Alfonso VIII on their patio in the inner garden. Their interior design and architecture are marvelous.
Have a sunset drink at Mariatrifulca. Get a table on the rooftop on the river side as you will get an amazing view looking over the river & the old center. Drink prices are decent, approx €3,5 for wine.
Have a good coffee & pastry at Ofelia Bakery.
Take away a good & strong roasted coffee at Virgen Coffee.

Roof terrace

Abba Sevilla Hotel
Fontecruz Sevilla Seises
Hotel Casa de Indias by Intur. The time we visited was only accessible for hotel guests. It may be because of Covid period.

Nice local boutiques

Ofcourse there is the fancy Spanish El Corte Inglés shopping warehouse but how about browsing in local (artistique) boutiques? Sharing a few streets but there are more. I browse in the smaller streets of the yellow area. When you keep yourself away from the main stream shopping area you will see a lot of small nice boutiques.

Calle Cerrajeria
Calle Don Alonso el Sabio
Calle Lineros

Where I like to hang out

Plaza España & park. At the square or in the shadow of the outdoor building site, there are regular good flamenco street performance. Probably in late morning or early/ late afternoon to avoid the hot temperature.
Setas de Sevilla, the mushroom sculpture and it has a rooftop walk (ticket required). Or have a take away coffee or ice cream and sit on a bench enjoying the view from the platform (one staircase up from the streets).
Wander around in Triana center. It’s less crowded and also nice to see the other side of the river.
Walk along on the other side of the river at Triana on Calle Betis. It is an excellent viewpoint to contemplate some of the most famous landmarks of Seville, the Torre del Oro (bull fighting arena) and the splendid Giralda. There are also a lot of bars and restaurants where you can have a nice cold drink and enjoy the old town of Seville from a distance.
Mercado de Triana – covered market selling vegetables, fish and meat. There are some small tapas bars or restaurants where you can enjoy a tasty lunch. A nice one is at Cerveceria Loli. However, service can be slow and the food may be served luke warm.
Stroll in the yellow areas of the centre in “Feria and Casco Antiguo”.
Calle Alfareria – pottery workshops that have been multiplying for centuries and where some wonderful decorated patios are located.

Special

Nothing fancy, it’s more like a cultural centre where you can have a beer and watch free flamenco performances, poetry or photography exhibitions in an old coal warehouse. This place, La Carboneria is hidden behind a big wooden door with a patio in the back. Opening times from 19pm. Suggest to go much later in the evening or check their agenda.

Sevilla is a charming city where I never get bored. Nice people, plenty of gastronomy and tasty food bars, and wonderful architecture in almost every street in the old center. I hope you will enjoy Sevilla as much as I do and if you have nice places you like to share, please do ♥️

If you like to watch other short videos of the procession, you can click on the links below.

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8 February 202326 February 2023

Retreat holiday in Bali, Indonesia

Retreat holiday in Bali is an absolute must do on your holiday list. My first visit on this beautiful island was back in 2010, returned in between and today with my partner for a relaxing holiday. This island has so much to offer, a lot to explore and to see, like serene nature, diverse landscape, beaches, mountains, culinary and cultural experiences and above all friendly Balinese people. For those, who like a vibrant life with music & (beach) party scenes with busy traffic, stay at Seminyak, Canggu, Kuta or Gili Trawagan.

The major income of this island is tourism and infrastructure to move yourself from A to B is by taxi or private drivers. Some also call themselves as tour guides or tour organisers and often speak basic English. To my knowledge, there is not much public transport. I heard, there is a red coloured public bus with a service route driving in the south area and may also go to Ubud but not further more. Nevertheless, Bali offers a wide range of activities that will fit to everyone’s interest. You can rent scooters or e-bikes to explore the area where you are staying in.

I will share some practical tips if you have plans to go to Bali. Normally, I stay at least 2 weeks up to a month and still have not seen everything yet. I like exploring on a slow pace and absorb the tranquillity and beauty that this island has to offer.

Climate

Dry season is from April to mid-November. It can feel very hot with the combination of sun and humidity, but you will enjoy more of rainbow colours on the underwater activities like diving and snorkelling.
Rainy season is from December until March. Rain can be for a few hours or a half day long. Bring your flip flops in case you like to be outdoor wandering in flooded streets. Get cheap ponchos at the convenient store for IDR20-25K or bring your hotel umbrella. Climate is very humid and often its cloudy sky. Bear in mind, you can still get heavy sun burns under a grey sky.

How to get around

Hire a private driver for travelling from A to B or for a full day to see more in a specific area. Do not only underestimate the distances; road quality, landscape and traffic can have a big impact on your trip too and the time that you spend on each site. A day trip (8-10hrs) including driver and fuel cost approx. IDR 600K-700K for max 2 guests. A nice gesture is to offer your driver a meal and drinks, and tip extra if you are happy with their services. Their English are often basic. In case you like to know more about facts of the places you are going to visit, suggest you to hire an official tour guide. High likely, it will cost you more but for sure it would give you a memorable tour with knowledge and professional experience.
You can also rent a scooter for approx. IDR 80K per day but bear in mind of rocky roads, pot holes or crazy traffic especially in a town. Ensure you arrange an international driver’s license and legitimate to be used in Bali. In bad luck, you can be hold off and get a ‘fine’ by the local police or urged to buy a Bali drivers license from them.
Download taxi service app e.g. Gojek or Grab. I don’t like using Grab as this app inquires a lot of privacy details. Uber does not exist here.
At Nusa Dua Benoa and the west coast around Seminyak, Kuta, Canggu, Legian – there are plenty of Bluebird taxis available that runs by the meter. Others, you will need to negotiate for a fixed price.

How do I find a private driver

Most local drivers use Facebook as their business advertisement channel and can be contacted via FB messenger or WhatsApp. Before my trip, I signed up for FB group “Bali Travel Forum”. In this private group, you can find travel tips from other fellow travellers, queries about travel itineraries or local advertisement on day tours or just post your inquiry related to your travel to Bali. During our trip in Bali, we had good experience with below private drivers.

Angga Bella: friendly male driver from Bali. He had exposure working across borders in shipping and speaks good English. In our opinion, Angga is a decent tour guide as he was able to answer our queries about local daily social life things. Find him on Facebook or contact him on WhatsApp +6281239237529.
Jhon Gus: funny male driver from Bali. Jhon speaks decent English and we had good fun with him during our drive from Nusa Dua to Ubud followed up by an unexpected daytrip in line with our itinerary. Jhon is genuine, honest and is not shy at all when you ask questions about life and tourist scenes in Bali.
Evi Rose: friendly female driver, originally from Java. Evi speaks basic English. She is so kind in helping me out to get lemongrass roots. They are here so more fragrant and delicious. I hope I can grow them in my home town. Find her on Facebook or contact her on WhatsApp +6287858866379.

Money exchange

At the airport, the money exchange booths offer a less beneficial rate. If you wish to exchange cash, suggest letting your driver to stop by a BMC money exchange shop just outside the airport area or just withdraw money from an official ATM of a local bank (BRI, BCA, BNI). Exchange rate depends on your ‘home’ bank. During your travel in Bali, be cautious for unauthorised money exchange booths. The bank does not always provide money exchange service (I have no idea why but it happened to me) for which you will have to go to a money exchange booth. Pay attention if their bill board display starts with “PT.”, I have been told that they are legally authorised money exchange brokers. Don’t go to places where they also sell clothes, souvenirs and tours etc.

Lovely mosquito’s

I always buy local repellent at a convenience store. The brand Deet or western stuff just don’t work and are always so expensive. I don’t mind the chemicals in the local products for a short period of usage because it’s more effective. The itchiness is unbearable, scratching continuously and getting open wounds is a no no. The product I buy is called Soffell. A small bottle cost approx. IDR12K. They sell in different fragrance and come with spray or body milk. Personally, after trying both, I like the body milk. Less sticky on your skin and nicer in smell. For after-bites, I buy Autan cream and cost approx. IDR14K. Prices differ in each store.

Pricing

All made for tourists. Don’t stress if you don’t see price displays. For local art and souvenirs, you will have to haggle to an acceptable price. Don’t pre-book your tours online. There are plenty of local suppliers with different pricing and are decent low comparing to online bookings.

Data sim card for tourists

Free WiFi is almost available everywhere in cafes or restaurants but sometimes it bring some inconvenience to ask for the password or it could be that the WiFi is not fast enough. Personally, I prefer buying a local sim to be online whenever I want without any hassle. In Bali, you can buy a tourist sim card that is only valid on sim-lock free smart phones and valid for xx days . Regular sim cards are only for residence. Registration might be required with a copy of your passport. Try to avoid unofficial sellers and buy a sim from a mobile shop. Operator Telkomsel has a good coverage in Bali as well as in remote areas. I paid via my driver’s contact for approx. IDR200K for 32GB.

Retreat areas

On arrival from a long-haul flight, I like to stay in a serene surrounding and the ability to visit local ‘tourist’ eateries in the area. When you stay at a resort for more than 3 nights, the menu gets boring at some point and it’s nice to wander around and see local places 😊

Nusa Dua ITDC, is a luxury hotel area with lushy and clean streets. Perfect for an arrival retreat for a few nights and not hearing cars honking all the time. Borrow a bike from your hotel and bike to Benoa area where its more lively.
Or stay at Sanur, it’s less serene than ITDC but excellent stay for a few nights along nice beaches that offers more cafes and restaurants in the area with easy access to Nusa Penida or Nusa Lembongan. It’s a great place to stay with family or finding peace with stores on walking distance.
In Ubud area, stay in a villa or in a lushy landscape along rice terraces. These are often located outside the town centre. Choose a stay where they offer free shuttle service to Ubud centre. Check with the reception how much a pickup will cost if you miss the shuttle. Then, at least you know an approx. price for a taxi haggle to get back to your hotel. Ubud centre itself is quite busy with traffic and offers mainly touristic (hand)craft markets, retail boutiques, massage salons, cafes and restaurants which are for sure super convenient if you like to drink & eat.
Menjangan National Park, is a lushy remote area with deer’s and monkey’s. We stayed here for 6 nights because we like diving at Menjangan island, a divine place for snorkelling and diving. Would highly recommend the beach villa’s if you are looking for a fabulous experience. Our resort, unfortunate offers only a range of paid activities and to our regret, is that we should have rent a scooter at the closest town so that we can mobilise ourselves a bit among local shops and have some variation in food choices or get local snacks and chips. Nevertheless, we enjoyed our stay at The Menjangan Resort but personally we think that 5 nights would have done good.

Tipping

Tipping is always appreciated but certainly not expected like the tipping standard as in the US. Some restaurants have a service charge which is divided between staff. I don’t tip for everything but do tip extra for good service e.g. IDR20K or a bit more. For drivers, I give between IDR 50 – 100K depending on the service duration. And hiring a driver for a day trip, a nice gesture is to offer them a meal & drinks.

Food journey’s

Try out different sambal types along your local food tastings. I like sambal matah which has fresh shallots, lemongrass and chili.
If you like snacking, try out their local chips. We really like the brand “JACKnJILL Piattos”, they have different sambal flavour chips and are yummie! There are also nice coconut ‘digestive’ bisquits.
Ubud: had an amazing dinner experience at Hujan Locale. Enjoy your coffee breaks at BitterSweet located in a retail store or at Pison.
Nusa Dua: visit a seafood restaurant at Jimbaran beach and enjoy a sunset dinner on the beach. Grilled seafood packages between IDR300-1000K for 2 persons including a beer. Just walk along the beach side and pick a place you like or where most people hang out. At the north point of Benoa, there is a hidden local gem, it’s a seafood place with nice view over the sea seeing airplanes taking off or landing or people enjoying watersport. This place calls Pinisi House Bali. Bear in mind, they have squat toilets (Feb-2023).

Not to miss out places

Uluwatu temple
Sunset grilled seafood dinner on the beach at Jimbaran. Lots of seafood places to choose from.
Tegenungan waterfall
Tegallalang rice terrace
Pura Tirta Empul temple
Mount Batur trekking
Ulun Danu temple
Try out the famous Luwak coffee at a plantation
Tanah Lot temple
Some luxury hotels offer a day pass for their (infinity) pool looking over a lushy jungle view or rice terrace. We enjoyed our swimming dip at Padma Resort Ubud a lot as the pool was comfortable heated. It’s about 1hr drive from Ubud centre. Cost IDR400K p.p. including towel and IDR 200K for food/beverage. Reservation would be recommended. The hotel has a shuttle service to Ubud center, perhaps you can check if you can hop-on for free with the day pass that you have booked with the hotel.
If you travel from south to the northern part of the island vice versa, make a stop at Belimbing Rice Terraces. These are so much more impressive than the Tegallalang rice terrace. There is a restaurant cafe where you can sit down and absorb the serene view. No entrance fee required (Feb.2023).
The Pupuan region has the largest rice field landscape. The car ride among those fields are amazing.
Other places that would be nice to go but I haven’t been there yet are: infinity pool with rice terrace view at Alas Harum Bali in Ubud (agritourism park), divine Diamond Beach at Nusa Penida, Tirta Gangga in Karangasem (former royal palace with three pools available for swimming), mountain retreat spa with spectacular views at The Monkey Bar @BellaKita in Klungkung (2022 daypass price IDR75K including towel and IDR50K credit for food consumption.

Happy travels in Bali & feel free to reach out if you have questions.

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31 March 20222 January 2023

Discover things to do and where to eat in Costa del Sol, Axarquía, Spain

Discover things to do and where to eat in Costa del Sol – updated on 30 December 2022: Living semi in Andalucía brings me much joy in life and one of them is exploring interesting places on an easy pace across four seasons with sunshine almost all year round 😊. Most of the time, I combine my trips with a nice outdoor activity such as a village/city/beach walk or a nature hike and ending my day with a culinary experience.

On this blog, you may not find tips on museum visits (only exceptional) or historical stories about the places I’ve visited. Nevertheless, I hope you will find something on this post that triggers your interest for your travel plans or maybe just find a nice restaurant for your day.

Most of my stay in Spain, I stay in Axarquía. This is a district of Málaga province in Andalucía on the east side of Malaga. Its name tracks back to Arabic meaning of “the eastern region” and covers the sunniest places on the east coast of Costa del Sol with an average of 320 sunny days a year. Axarquía is composed of 31 municipalities and I will share the places which I like or visit the most.

Towns and villages covered in this blog are: Frigiliana, Nerja, Torrox Costa, Torre del Mar, Caleta de Vélez, Vélez-Málaga, Salobreňa. More recommendations to be updated for Lake Viñuela, La Maroma.

Frigiliana

Frigiliana is my most favourite village so far which is also Spain’s most beautiful and well-preserved village.

Take a stroll in this picturesque village, explore the small streets with beautiful blue painted doors and window shutters, see colourful flowers in pots or pink bougainvillea growing on white walls that bring a heart-warming feeling. Ladies don’t forget to wear comfy shoes as the streets and alleys are charmingly cobbled in this village. Note that shops are often closed during siesta time (14-17pm) and in winters (Jan/Feb), some may be even totally closed having their winter break.
Prefer a guide telling you all the historic stories of this village? You can book a guided tour in English. Costs for an adult is €4. Check out for more information on this link www.frigilianatours.com
Want to go for a spectacular hiking route Rio Higueron and El Fuerte? This route takes you from the beautiful village of Frigiliana into the waters of the Rio Higueron following it upstream to near its source in the Carrascal. Find more about hiking routes in Frigiliana and in its Natural Park Sierras de Tejeda on this link.
Explore other activities on the official tourist office website for Frigiliana.

My favourite food places in Frigiliana:

Restaurante El Jardin – serves a range of fresh Mediterranean cuisine/Marrocan food. It has a divine terrace looking over Frigiliana village. To get there, it’s quite an uphill walk but worthwhile. Main dish approx. €20

Transportation

You can easily drive to Frigiliana by car from Nerja, it’s about 4km. There is one big parking garage, or you can park along the main road for free if there is a spot available. At high season, very unlikely to find something though. Taxi always possible.

Another option is taking the bus that runs every hour between 07:20am until 20:30pm. Bear in mind, there is no bus service outside these service hours, also not on Sundays and not on public holidays. The bus departs from Nerja bus station. Ensure you have small bills/change to pay in the bus, one-way cost €1,20. For bus time table, please check here.

Nerja

Nerja is well known across Spain for its natural beaches, with many of its coves frequently featuring amongst the candidates for the best beach in Spain.

Balcón de Europa, undoubtedly the heart of Nerja (balcony square) with amazing sea and mountain views.
Nerja caves, one of Spain’s most popular and spectacular historical sites. Sometimes, they hold classical music concerts onsite. For the early birds, they offer limited free entrance for EU citizen from Monday until Friday, on the first opening slot at 09:30am. Check for reservation rules on their website.
Wet and wild hiking trail along (in) the river Rio Chillar. The river flows through Tejeda, Almijara and Alhama Nature Reserves. On your journey you will have the opportunity to bath in a natural gorge and waterfall. Be prepared that your shoes get soaked and bear in mind to wear steady walking shoes. Accidents has happened here and would be good to have urgent SOS numbers to reach out to.
For some beach moment, go to Burriana beach, it’s a cosy ‘posh’ beach with nice and modern restaurants. There are nice natural beaches along the coast nearby Nerja but bear in mind there are limited facilities. Access is often along the national beach road.
Tuesday market, located in Almijara II urbanization on the way up to Capistrano San Juan neighbourhood. They sell leather goods, textile, Spanish artisan pottery, spices, vegetable and fruit. Opening hours at 09:30-ish until 13/14:00pm. Take the Verano Azul blue bus from town, approx. €1.
Sunday Nerja Flea Market (also called as Rastro), find all kinds of second-hand items eg lamps, paintings, furniture, fabrics, clothing, books etc. Location is the same as the Tuesday market in Almijara II urbanization and starts from 08:30am until 14:00pm.
Explore other activities on the official tourist office website for Nerja.

My favourite food places in Nerja:

Spanish & seafood: La Marina Marisqueria. There are two types of seating areas. On the left side of the entrance is the tapas area. You can choose one free tapas from a designated list with each single drink you order. On top, you can also order dishes from the menu. On the right side, these are tables where you can order from the menu but no free tapas 😉. Tip – be assertive when you want to get their attention to place your food/drink order.
Italian: L’antica Nonna Mia. I highly recommend their fresh pasta dishes and tiramisu. Just superlicious and super value for its quality, price and quantity! On a nice sunny day, you can enjoy the surroundings at their divine terrace with sea view.
Italian: for a typical Italian style pizza, I would go to Vitaliano da Cristina (close to Nonna Mia and has a nice terrace with sea view) or go to Paparazzi.
For carnivores go to Posada de Iberica. I just love this place! Small menu, delicious food prepared with passion and all managed by a friendly man from Argentina. It’s a small cosy brown café style restaurant, a one-man show who serves quality food, good quantity and for a good price.
Prefer a trendy gastronomic experience with table settings and cosy atmosphere? Go to Fusion by Silvio Santogiacomo, Pápalo, Restaurante Unico.
At Burriana beach, one of my favorite trendy gastronomic tapas place is RAW Lounge.
Do you like drinking cocktails? Go to Hemingway’s, I always go back to this place to get close to my cocktail standards. Wanna go for a nice holiday feeling with amazing rooftop views? Go to Terazza Buddha Lounge bar or the Volk’s Bar Sevillano (take the elevator situated inside Sevillano restaurant).
For the best churros in town, I go to a simple local place at Café Bar las Cuatro Esquinas. They serve fresh fried churros between 09:00-12:00 noon and from 17:00-19:00pm. Chocolate lovers, order a cup of hot chocolate to dip in, you will not regret!
Breakfast: is your breakfast the most joyful meal to start with your day? Go to Parador Hotel, it isn’t cheap, ~€20pp but they serve an amazing buffet breakfast with a divine sea view on the terrace. They serve fresh orange juice, various bread, amuses, cheese/meat cuts, cereals, yoghurts, cold & hot platters and sweets and more to have a happy day.
Like to enjoy your morning coffee with a nice sunny sea view? Go to Café Anahi, they have a small balcony terrace in the back with decent local prices in a top touristic location.
For a nice tea-time, I like to go to Mena Garden Nerja. It’s situated at the back of the hotel in a charming inner garden. Their carrot cake is delicious! Not too sweet of not overly layered with crème.
For good bread or pastry, especially their carrot cake, go to bakery Panadería Confitería Salvador Nerja.

Torrox Costa

Have a nice morning or sunset run or walk on the beach boulevard of Torrox Costa. This beach can be quite windy comparing to other beaches but gives an uber relaxing holiday feeling. The boulevard offers plenty of beach cafés and restaurants, and a nice simple breakfast menu for about € 5

Monday market next to Iberostar hotel building. They sell leather goods, textile, Spanish artisan pottery, spices, vegetable and fruit. Opening hours at 09:30-ish until 13/14:00pm.

My favourite food places in Torrox Costa:

For the best ice-cream in Nerja and neighbourhoods, I tried them all and this is in my opinion the best place for milky ice cream at Vistamar Helados Artesanos. Note that they are closed during the winter season, I believe from October until March. It could be that they are open for weekends with limited opening hours in March.
Spanish & Seafood: Marisquera Encinas, one of my favorite typical local places where Spanish families gather for a weekend lunch. The food is delicious! Highly recommend their creamy Russian salad, almejas, boiled gamba’s, shell fish conchas finas naturale, grilled fish, paella or soup rice meal – arroz con bogavante (local lobster) or arroz con carabineros (mix seafood with giant shrimps). If you want to lunch during Spanish time, after 14pm, I highly recommend you in booking a table in advance. Bear in mind, this is not a fancy place, tables are setup on the pedestrian street facing a busy road. However, the seafood is divine with local cosiness! Another nice place and has a beautiful terrace on the seafront boulevard is at Restaurante La Farola. It’s a very popular place among locals and tourist, a table reservation for lunch would be highly recommended. Especially on the terrace.
Spanish: restaurant El Tito Arenas, a hidden gem with a relaxed local atmosphere. Excellent service and delicious food at great value. Their back garden terrace is nicer than the street side. Highly recommend their entrecote and on Friday’s lunch time, you can pre-order arroz con bogavante dish for €9,5 pp. On other days, its minimum 2 persons order and cost more. For the latter, suggest a table reservation.
Spanish: a little bit off from Torrox Costa boulevard, along the main road towards Nerja at the beach front, you have chiringuito Jose Jimenez 34. Great service and delicious paella! Pre-order your paella with your table reservation to avoid disappointment as they won’t make this for you when its busy. They have mix (chicken/seafood) or seafood paella. Cost ~€22 for 2 persons and lobster paella for €46,-
Breakfast or lunch: trendy small cosy place at Entre Vientos, close to the lighthouse with nice sea view. Craving for real German bread or torten (sweet pie)? Go to Wolfgang und Karina’s Backstűbel. They serve an amazing breakfast set for ~ €5,5 that includes excellent coffee, various bread, cheese/ham and jam, or add ~€1,5 for scrambled egg.
Craving for some good Belgium beer and good simple food? Go to Le Comptoir Belge. In my opinion, when a place serves good crunchy tasty fries, that’s the place to have a good meal! They have a nice terrace with sea view.
For gastronomic Spanish go to Restaurante Pata Negra Playa. Serves Spanish food in a modern twist with excellent quality and price.

Torre del Mar

A popular beach site for local tourists with nice chiringuitos (beach bar/restaurant) along the boulevard. This nice promenade goes all the way to Caleta de Vélez, approx. 4km.

My favourite food places in Torre del Mar:

Spanish: Chiringuito Casa Miguel, a nice trendy place with great service serving delicious grilled/fried seafood. In- and outdoor seating at the beach front.
Spanish & seafood: El Señuelo, a very popular place among the locals. They have a tapas seating area at the entrance or tables on the terrace (however facing a parking place) or indoors. Spanish lunch time in weekends (after 2pm), I highly recommend you booking a table in advance.

Caleta de Vélez

Take a nice stroll at the little harbour where all the sailing boats are docked and have lunch or a drink at one of those bar/ restaurants.

My favourite food places in Caleta de Vélez:

Spanish & seafood: Marisqueria Mani, popular among locals with decent prices. The fish is fresh and delicious!
Spanish & seafood: Chinchin puerto, a trendy posh place located opposite of the little harbour. Atmosphere is superb, food is good but prices are a bit high-end.

Vélez-Málaga

Take a very nice town walk along the alley’s, especially walking up to the fort (Alcazaba La Fortaleza). It’s quite uphill but you will get an amazing 360 view over the town and sea. This town still has preserved its local vibe. There aren’t many tourists here and this is what I like the most.

My favourite food places in Vélez-Malaga:

Spanish tapas bar: Restaurante la Gamba Dorada, this place offers a nice vibe with great services. You can choose one free tapas from a designated list with each single drink you order. What I most like about this place is, they offer a wide variety of red, white and rose wine per glass, so you don’t need to buy a bottle to taste the wine.

Salobreňa

A beautiful white village on the Costa Tropical, dominated by a hilltop castle from the Al-Andalus period. This castle transitioned from a Phoenician to a Roman site, then to an Arabic fortress and at last conquered by the Catholic kings.

Take a stroll in the old town, walk along the narrow streets and relax in tranquility.
Visit the fortress castle that offers a mixture of architecture from different periods. At the top, you will have a 360’ panorama view. At clear blue sky, you can even see Sierra Nevada.
Don’t miss the beautiful beach that is at the bottom of the town. Take a nice stroll along the boulevard and enjoy a glass Tinto de Verano (soda mix with wine) or sangria.

More recommendations to be updated for Lake Viñuela, La Maroma.

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29 March 202125 February 2023

Terrors of El Caminito del Rey and its magical nature

Terrors of el Caminito del Rey is a divine destination to visit. El Caminito del Rey (The King’s Little Path) is a walkway, pinned along the steep walls of a narrow gorge in El Chorro, near Ardales in the province of Málaga, Spain. This beautiful scenic walk is breath taking and brings more natural sights you can visit for a day. You can find other hiking trails and gorgeous blue lakes for a magical chill out.

How to plan your visit?

I suggest booking your tickets in advance as this attraction can be fully booked for months. We are fortunate with the Covid restrictions and could pay a visit without mass tourism. You can buy tickets online on their official website.

This hike takes about 2 hours in a stretch of 8km without a guided tour (guided is optional) and is a one-way walk from the northern point to the south, ending at the village El Chorro. We took our time in enjoying the nature and there are benches available where you can consume your sandwich at scenery spots.

Route El Caminito del Rey – The King’s Little Path

In general, the hike is an easy combination of walking on flat soil paths, boardwalks and steps. For those being afraid of heights, the boardwalk is about 1,5-meter width having a metal thread fence. Some boards have an opening of ~3cm in between, so flat solid shoes are highly recommended. I believe children under the age of 8 are not allowed to entry, please check the entrance rules on the website. Along the path there are staff keeping an eye on safety and protecting the nature.

Car parking options:

You can park your car at the starting point or finishing point. If you choose for the latter, you can take the ‘Caminito del Rey bus’ that brings you to the starting point. The bus fare is €1,55 per person for a single trip and drives every 30min during operational hours. You can easily find the bus stop as there are clear signs on the streets. The bus ride takes approx. 20min. If you are lucky, you can park your car for free along the mountain road or find a spot in public parking spaces. Otherwise, you can park at the visitor center for €2 which is close to the starting point.

How to find the starting point?

This was a mystery for all visitors, both to locals and foreigners. There are no clear route directions, neither clear information on the website on how to walk to the starting point. Take as reference on Google map ‘El Kiosko, Ardales’. This building has a restaurant, bar and a little kiosk and is located along the mountain road. On the right side of the kiosk, there is a tunnel. Pass through the tunnel and turn right on the path. There is a sign with El Caminito del Rey. The walk to the starting point takes approx. 20-30min. At the starting point, you need to queue for your entrance slot. Bear in mind, they do not sell entrance tickets here. Once you pass through the ticket scan, a helmet and a brief introduction on safety & rules will be provided in Spanish or English. What about toilets? No worries, you can find toilet facilities at the queuing area… but be sure you have your own ‘toilet’ paper 😉

I hope you will enjoy this beautiful walk and magical landscape!

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15 August 202030 August 2020

Covid19 Summer Trip in Bordeaux and Arcachon

After a delicious tapas roaming experience in Donostia, we crossed over the Spanish/French border meeting up with our friends in Bordeaux. We stepped our foot in heaven; Cité du Vin, enjoying life with fromage, charcuterie and French gourmet!

What more could we ask for?

J’ adore Bordeaux, this was my 2^nd visit and Bordeaux is a very lovely city where everything is on a footstep away. Not like Paris, where you need the metro to go to the other side of the center. I definitely suggest in staying in the city center as it’s more convenient and everything is close for a few days of stay. Nice things to do in Bordeaux:

Wandering through the historic cobbled streets and around medieval St. Pierre district… yes, bring your flat shoes 🙂
Absorbing neo-classic architecture at Triangle d’Or (golden triangle), bounded by 3 fine boulevards Cours Clemenceau, Cours de L’intendance and Allées de Tourney.
Attend a classical concert or opera at the Grand Theatre.
Palais de la Bourse, famous for its palace reflection on a water pool.
Walk or run along the riverfront Garonne and Pont-de-Pierre bridge.
Visit Marché des Capuchins – a bit off track from the center and close to the station. It’s a covered outdoor market with food stands selling fresh daily groceries. There are a few food stands where you can have breakfast or lunch. Slurp down some oysters & white wine on it’s French style.
Enjoy a glass of wine on a terrace or wine bar.
Rent a car and take the D2 Route Vins. This route is an hour drive from the city where you can visit many popular vineyards & wine houses. A wine tasting reservation is highly recommended as we ended up not able to get in anywhere.

After Bordeaux we left for Arcachon. I remembered when I landed at Bordeaux airport on my 1^st visit, there was a big wall poster of this place. I forgot the city name but definitely remembered the beautiful sand dunes and paragliders on that wallpaper. I googled and finally found the name where I wanted to go.

Did you know that ‘Dune of Pilat aka Grande Dune du Pilat’ is the tallest sand dune in Europe and runs parallel to a beach? It’s located in Arcachon Bay area, on the southwest coast of France, about 60km from Bordeaux. This dune has a length of 2,7km and the height is about 106,6m above sea level (this can vary each year).

I was so excited to be there. Going uphill, puffing and almost out of breath in getting to the top. It wasn’t easy walking uphill on sand that falls down on every step but the view from the top was amazingly gorgeous! We sat and lay down at the top and embraced the breeze, having sea view on one side and a forest on the other side. We didn’t stay long and the men were planning to go back the next day for an early morning run. I had no doubts and wanted to join. Not the running part ofcourse as they are crazy serious runners.

The next morning, we left at 8am. Wearing my running cloths and flip-flops…. I was ready in taking this challenge on my bear feet in running and walking off the entire sand dune stretch. This wonderful moment is unforgettable, in my own bubble enjoying this serene environment with just a few people in having the same thought. There was even a family walking up to the top with a baguette under their arm and had their breakfast when they finally found their spot 🙂

Foodie & Wine places we liked in Bordeaux

Aux 4 coins du vin – a local favourite wine bar where you tap wine from an enigmatic machine. You use a chargeable card and tap the card to pay for each type of glass you want to taste. They offer a large variety of local wines including high-end wines. You can order charcuterie & cheese plates. Highly recommend in booking a seat if you go after dinner.
Cent 33 – superlicious gastronomic experience and awarded as Bib Gourmand. It was an unforgettable dinner menu.
Conseil Interprofessional de Vin de Bordeaux (CIBV) – a governmental organisation (includes a wine school) that represents Bordeaux wines within its region at incredible prices. In addition they offer small deli plates. Sunday’s closed.
Horace café – very nice charming place offering daily plats. Starter ~€8, main ~€13
Le Bar Du Boucher – carnivore paradise with a casual vibe and a local’s favorite. Choose your meat at the counter.
Le Bouchon Bordelaise – non fancy friendly bistro with affordable prices. A lunch plate is from €10.
Le Boulanger de l’Hôtel de Ville – very delicious small bakery (its not in the hotel) with a few tiny tables where you can eat your croissant or pastry and coffee.
Le Chien de Pavlov – contemporary bistro ran by native Bordeauxlais with good value menu.
Suzzi– popular Swedish café for breakfast, brunch or lunch.
Le Bocal de Tatie Josée – on my list to go for my next visit if I need a good breakfast place.
La Tupina – on my list to go for my next visit
Boulangerie Louis Lamour – a bakery to try out on my next visit
Racines – on my list to go for my next visit
D2 Route Vins, take a lunch at Le Wine Bar Margeaux – we had an amazing lunch here serving house wine from Chateaux Margeaux for a very good market price.

Foodie places we liked in Arcachon

Chez Jejhene, in La Teste de Buch – a simple oyster farm offering oysters, snails and pate and one type of housewine.
Le Cabestan, in Arcachon city center – we had an amazing good dinner here except for the black ink risotto.
Le Pitt, in Arcachon city center – lovely bistro and nice terrace offering oysters, shrimps, snails, pate & charcuterie.
Le Patio – fine dining for next visit

How to get from BOD airport to Bordeaux city center?

By public transport, take ‘Liane bus 1’. Ticket can be purchased at Hall B near the bus stop. The ride can take upto 45min-1hr. Hopp off at bus stop ‘Gambetta’ (1 stop before train station St. Jean). Please note getting off and onboarding is not the same spot. Onboarding to the airport, the bus stop is situated on street Judaïque, close to street Château d’Eau.

Bon voyage if you plan your trip to Bordeaux or Arcachon & Enjoy your fabulous moments!

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11 August 202011 August 2020

Covid19 Summer Trip in San Sebastián

We continued our Covid trip from La Rioja to San Sebastián/Donostia. It was my first visit here and as many said, Donostia really brings a divine tapas roaming experience! Literally, we ate the whole day and walk it off from bar to bar. There is more fun, make a nice walk or do a run on the promenade along the bay having a gorgeous view. Then follow with a cool down by sipping on an ice coffee at one of the many cafés on the promenade. What about sunbathing on the beautiful beach bays? There is one bay on the left side of the old town and the other one on the right side where people can play beach activities. Hike up on the Urgull hill where you get an incredible view from the Jesus statue Donostia.

We liked it all, except for the lack of safety in being conscious of social distancing in packed bars. Of course, it is inevitable in bars and people tend to care less when they are in joyful groups. Police were standing in front of the bar and they did nothing about the crowded bar. No controls and no warnings, better take precautions yourself at all times in these bizarre moments. The nicest thing about travelling in Covid period is, is less crowd then normal. Shorter queues and no overwhelming flood of tourists in high season.

Special dishes to try in Donostia

Bacalao – salty cod fish in styles such as pil-pil, salt cod brandade, bunuelos de bacalao (cod fritters), tortilla de bacalao (omelet).
Carrillada – slow cooked beef or pork cheek or as guisos (stew).
Cider – natural fermented apple cider, no added ingredients or preservatives. The special pouring technique aerates the cider and gives it a bit of effervescence
Foie gras pintxo – in paté or freshly grilled.
Gilda – green olives, spicy local pickled peppers and a plump anchovy. It’s one of the most delicious bites, especially when paired with a glass of local vermouth or cider.
Idiazabal cheese – smokey sheep’s milk cheese
Kokotxas – fish cheeks, often served as kokotxas de merluza (hake fish).
Txakoli – a local white wine is served the same way as cider. Poured from a great in order to create effervescence. It taste similar to cider and a delicious partner in crime to a pinxtos crawl.
Txuleta – aged grass fed beef, often served rare and by 1kg only
Whole roasted fish – popular fishes are merluza (hake), lenguado (sole), rodaballo (turbot).

Tips: Order your pintxos or raciones (shared plates) from the menu board . Pinxtos on the bar could be standing there for a quite some time. You can check that on some pinxtos when the topping look dry, especially the salad types with dressing.

Visit a high-end restaurant or a Michelin star restaurant in getting a 360° gourmet experience.

Foodie places we liked

Bodega Donostiarra Gros – this place was recommended by a local friend and it has a great atmosphere with great food. Few tables indoor and outdoor. We like Gros area very much, it’s situated on the right river bank side where it has more a local vibe.

Bergara Bar – don’t miss out this place! Recommended by a friend and it offers innovative tapas with a modern twist. Tapas was superb delicious.

Goiz-Argi, Fermin Calbeton Kalea 4 – specialty is the brocheta de gambas. Tried at others bars but here is at its best.

Bar Nestor – they serve 3 type of dishes; tomatoes, padrón peppers, 1kg txuleton steak and if you have luck, tortilla de patata. I have not tried the kilo steak as its way too much for me and the tortilla was sold out. We didn’t understand the popularity of this bar and personally, we didn’t find the tomato salad and peppers to die for but maybe it’s their steak.

Papperino II Gelato – passed by this ice cream shop by coincidence with a long queue. Superb ice cream for a good price.

Kenko Sushi Kenji Takahashi, Urbieta Kalea 9 – you want something else than Spanish food? Try out this place located in Mercado de San Martin (ground floor). Normally, there are tables at the indoor market to consume your food but with Covid only take away.

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4 August 20205 August 2020

Covid19 Summer Trip in La Rioja

Having a semi-lock down of 3+ months, we are finally somewhat free in spreading our wings in pursuing our life passions again. Terrace time, dining out, going to the movies and especially travelling beyond borders. Although mobility freedom is limited to your continent or to countries labelled as yellow/green zones, it does bring me an excited feeling being back in exploring new adventures!

Our journey drove us to La Rioja, Donostia/San Sebastián, Bordeaux and closing with Arcachon during the Covid19 period. Each country has their own safety restrictions and is subject to changes. This trip brought us a memorable extraordinary experience 😷

Travelling in La Rioja, we noticed that people in every single village were really being cautious. Keeping their masks on at most times, outdoor and indoor and keeping distance from strangers. At first sight, this was an awkward experience because in the Netherlands most people tend to be very relaxed about Covid. I felt safe at a certain matter as I take extra precautions myself, being in a risk group. La Rioja is so beautiful with its charm, serene villages, panoramic vineyard and sunflower fields at every corner you drive, and Rioja also offers its delicious local food & wine. What more could we ask for?

We lay our base at Palacio de Casafuerte in Zarratón, a small renovated charming palace hotel with 5 rooms run by a local family. We liked our stay here very much. This hotel is superb centrally located when you travel by car and their breakfast was such a wealthy morning start to look forward to every day.

Special dishes to try in La Rioja

Bacalao in tomato sauce – cod fish
Beef/pork cheeks in red wine sauce
Chuletas – grilled lamb chops
Menestra de verduras – sautéed vegetable stew
Patatas a la Rioja
Piquillo peppers
Roasted suckling lamb/pig
Torrijas – Spanish style French toast (dessert)
White asparagus, often preserved in a jar
Zurracapote – quite similar to sangria cocktail drink

Foodie & wine places we liked

La Cocina de Ramón in Logroño– this was our most favourite restaurant where we had a divine 3 course lunch for €25 (weekdays only) and awarded as Bib Gourmand. We dropped by with no reservation and had luck with a table. Staff is friendly and speak a bit English. If you go for à-la-carte, highly recommend the Logroño tomato salad as starter.

Restaurante Palacio de Casafuerte in Zarratón – wonderful rustic serene setting and the dinner was superb delicious. Starter ~ €15, main ~ €20 and dessert ~ €5. Highly recommend the vegetable stew from La Rioja (menestra). I tried this dish at a few restaurants but here it was at its best.

Marqués de Riscal – ranked on 6^th best world vineyards in 2020 and has a hotel onsite designed by Frank Owen Gehry (one of his work is the Guggenheim museum in Bilboa). You can join a wine tasting tour of 90min. This includes 3 tastings and prices are from €19pp. Personally, we skipped the tour and wanted to enjoy the building architecture and had a drink at the hotel bar. Access to the hotel area, go to the information desk and check with the shop staff if there is a table free at the hotel bar. We tried to walk in but there are barricades and security holds you up when you access via the road. After enjoying a nice view from the bar, we head to the café situated in the wine shop and did our own wine tasting with tapas bites which you can order at the café bar. To our surprise, the prices are very decent affordable.

La Vieja Bodega in Casalarreina – awarded as Bib Gourmand with a very nice authentic wooden farmer’s house setting. Friendly skilled staff, sommelier and hosts, all speak English. Great wine menu and a small selection can be ordered by glass.

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