We continued our Covid trip from La Rioja to San Sebastián/Donostia. It was my first visit here and as many said, Donostia really brings a divine tapas roaming experience! Literally, we ate the whole day and walk it off from bar to bar. There is more fun, make a nice walk or do a run on the promenade along the bay having a gorgeous view. Then follow with a cool down by sipping on an ice coffee at one of the many cafés on the promenade. What about sunbathing on the beautiful beach bays? There is one bay on the left side of the old town and the other one on the right side where people can play beach activities. Hike up on the Urgull hill where you get an incredible view from the Jesus statue Donostia.
We liked it all, except for the lack of safety in being conscious of social distancing in packed bars. Of course, it is inevitable in bars and people tend to care less when they are in joyful groups. Police were standing in front of the bar and they did nothing about the crowded bar. No controls and no warnings, better take precautions yourself at all times in these bizarre moments. The nicest thing about travelling in Covid period is, is less crowd then normal. Shorter queues and no overwhelming flood of tourists in high season.
Bar Bergara 
Bar Nestor 
Special dishes to try in Donostia
- Bacalao – salty cod fish in styles such as pil-pil, salt cod brandade, bunuelos de bacalao (cod fritters), tortilla de bacalao (omelet).
- Carrillada – slow cooked beef or pork cheek or as guisos (stew).
- Cider – natural fermented apple cider, no added ingredients or preservatives. The special pouring technique aerates the cider and gives it a bit of effervescence
- Foie gras pintxo – in paté or freshly grilled.
- Gilda – green olives, spicy local pickled peppers and a plump anchovy. It’s one of the most delicious bites, especially when paired with a glass of local vermouth or cider.
- Idiazabal cheese – smokey sheep’s milk cheese
- Kokotxas – fish cheeks, often served as kokotxas de merluza (hake fish).
- Txakoli – a local white wine is served the same way as cider. Poured from a great in order to create effervescence. It taste similar to cider and a delicious partner in crime to a pinxtos crawl.
- Txuleta – aged grass fed beef, often served rare and by 1kg only
- Whole roasted fish – popular fishes are merluza (hake), lenguado (sole), rodaballo (turbot).
Tips: Order your pintxos or raciones (shared plates) from the menu board . Pinxtos on the bar could be standing there for a quite some time. You can check that on some pinxtos when the topping look dry, especially the salad types with dressing.
Visit a high-end restaurant or a Michelin star restaurant in getting a 360° gourmet experience.
Foodie places we liked
- Bodega Donostiarra Gros – this place was recommended by a local friend and it has a great atmosphere with great food. Few tables indoor and outdoor. We like Gros area very much, it’s situated on the right river bank side where it has more a local vibe.
- Bergara Bar – don’t miss out this place! Recommended by a friend and it offers innovative tapas with a modern twist. Tapas was superb delicious.
- Goiz-Argi, Fermin Calbeton Kalea 4 – specialty is the brocheta de gambas. Tried at others bars but here is at its best.
- Bar Nestor – they serve 3 type of dishes; tomatoes, padrón peppers, 1kg txuleton steak and if you have luck, tortilla de patata. I have not tried the kilo steak as its way too much for me and the tortilla was sold out. We didn’t understand the popularity of this bar and personally, we didn’t find the tomato salad and peppers to die for but maybe it’s their steak.
- Papperino II Gelato – passed by this ice cream shop by coincidence with a long queue. Superb ice cream for a good price.
- Kenko Sushi Kenji Takahashi, Urbieta Kalea 9 – you want something else than Spanish food? Try out this place located in Mercado de San Martin (ground floor). Normally, there are tables at the indoor market to consume your food but with Covid only take away.
